Backpacking

Sterling Pass to Jim Thompson Trailhead Loop

Summary - If you have multiple cars to set up a shuttle (or just Uber), we have a mind-blowing backpacking trip that features four of the best day hikes in Sedona in a single action packed two-day adventure.

For anyone with a limited time in town and are looking to maximize your hiking experience, we couldn’t recommend a better way to tour these beautiful mountains.

Seasonal Timing - You’ll have two windows during the year when conditions are ideal. The first is between early April and late May, when spring conditions are favorable and water flow is highest. The second would be in the fall when the leaves are changing, likely between late September and mid October.

Outside of that window, anytime between April and November would likely work, weather permitting.

Distance & Elevation Gain

Day One - Sterling Pass Trailhead to the Entrance of Secret Canyon via Bear Sign Trail - 7.8 mi.

Lowest Elevation: 4,840 ft. - Sterling Pass Trailhead
Highest Elevation: 5,900 ft. - Top of Sterling Pass
Largest Elevation Gain/Loss: +1,060 ft.

Day Two - Secret Canyon to Jim Thompson Trailhead via Soldier Pass Trail - 7.4 mi. (not including Secret Canyon offshoot hike)

Highest Elevation: 5,000 ft. - Secret Canyon Trail, top of Soldier Pass
Lowest Elevation: 4,500 ft. - Jim Thompson Trailhead
Largest Elevation Gain/Loss: -500 ft.

Total Mileage: 15.2 mi. (not including Secret Canyon out-and-back offshoot hike)

Options for Completing the Hike - This route is one option among a large network of hiking trails in Sedona. Check out the map and see what option works best for you.

Permits and Reservations - Wilderness camping is 100% allowed on these trails. No permits or reservations needed—you can take off and go whenever! To park at the Jim Thompson Trailhead, you do need either a Red Rock Pass or an America the Beautiful National Parks Pass. Single-use passes can be purchased at the trailhead for $5 per day.

What to Pack - In addition to regular backpacking gear, we recommend the following standout items:

A water filter (plus tablets for peace of mind) - See details on water below.
A 3L water bladder - or similar storage volume, due to limited water sources on the trail.
DSLR camera - This is a short trip with incredible views. If you can get your pack weight down, it may be worth hauling along the heavy camera.
A light daypack - If you decide to explore the Secret Canyon out-and-back trail, you’ll want to leave most of your heavy gear near the trailhead.

Setting Up Your Shuttle - On the morning of your hike, drop one car off at the Jim Thompson Trailhead parking lot. Make sure you display your Red Rock / America the Beautiful Park Pass properly in your car window.

Reaching the Trailhead - After dropping off your shuttle, drive your second vehicle to the Sterling Pass Trailhead. The parking area is a small gravel pull-out on the side of the road, located just south of Manzanita Campground on Hwy 89A in Oak Creek Canyon.

Photo: this trek follows the blue arrows on the map above, starting at Sterling Pass and finishing at the Jim Thompson trailhead.

Campsite Options

You have three great options for setting up camp on night one:

Option 1: The first option is at the very top of the hill on the David Miller trail. This spot has one of the best views of the entire hike; you could set up your tent right on the ledge for an insane photo opportunity. The downsides of this option are 1) high exposure to the wind 2) no water, and 3) you’d be leaving yourself a longer day of hiking the following day.
Option 2: A mile further, there’s an excellent primitive campsite at the trail junction to the entrance of Secret Canyon. We found treatable water just a few hundred yards up Secret Canyon trail, but you may have to hike up to a quarter mile further depending on the time of year.
Option 3: If you plan on exploring Secret Canyon, you can find some excellent primitive campsites roughly .5 miles up the Secret Canyon trail, featuring both beautiful views of the canyon walls and access to treatable water.

Stay Safe

Water on the Trail (Important) - Water access is a little tricky on this trip. Your only reliable source for drinking water will be pools of standing water from a partially dry creek bed in Secret Canyon. There are times of the year when this creek is flowing, but we went in May after a heavy snow year, and it was dead still.

Clearly, this water NEEDS to be treated with a proper filter (it looks pretty gross). We heard from both local hiking experts and other backpackers on the trail that a water filter alone is enough to properly treat the water, but for peace of mind, we added sterilization tablets after filtering. What do you have to lose after all?

Fill up here, because there’s absolutely no water left until the end of your journey at Jim Thompson Trailhead. You might also be able to find a few small flowing creeks in Sterling Canyon, but it shouldn’t be relied upon. Ask the guys over at Hike House or the local ranger station for updates on water flow before you take off.

Poison ivy - Wear long pants and keep an eye out for Poison Ivy along the Sterling Pass Trail and the Bear Sign Trail.

Unexpected Challenges - Regarding directions, the only head scratching moment was that the trail in Bear Sign Creek was longer than expected. That’s partially because the trail follows a dry creek bed that feels like the middle of nowhere. Inevitably you start wondering if you missed a junction. Have no fear—the junction sign for the David Miller Trail is very obvious. Keep following the trail, and you won’t miss it.